In Which my Muslins do not Cooperate

28 Jan

So here I am; I’ve carefully traced my suit pattern onto sturdier paper (thus preserving the original pattern), I’ve made some preliminary adjustments and I cut out my muslin. I’m so good too because I then thread trace all my seam lines so that later, when I make adjustments I can see where, exactly, I’ve deviated from the original pattern. I sew it up and get this:


Double Blerg

Wow, super baggy right? I bought my correct size- a 34″ bust but apparently the drafter had something else in mind! I also noticed that the shoulders are WAY too wide and also that the darts on the front are not pointing at the apex of my bust. Taking this into account, I made some changes and came up with this:



I’m not entirely worried about the bagginess in the lower back. In this set of photos, I forgot to turn up the hem which is a generous 2″. In the first set of pictures, the hem is turned up effectively mitigating the bagginess factor.

So, the armholes are fitting a bit better and hitting more or less at the correct spot but what is up with that gape on the front left neckline? Is this something that one just pins right out? The bust points are more to where they should be though.

The back is still pretty loose and I attribute this to my narrow back and over-erect posture (I weirdly get a lot of compliments about my posture from men). Those blue lines you see on the back are me attempting to link the darts on the bottom to the darts at the top shoulder in an effort to narrow up the back later.

I’m not sure what to do at this point. I ordered this book, and I wish it would hurry up and arrive so I can figure out what the issue is! Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I’m thinking of scrapping it all and starting from scratch. I ordered some hair canvas which arrived the other day and I really would like to get cracking on the fun part of tailoring this suit!

Until next time,


2 Responses to “In Which my Muslins do not Cooperate”

  1. Casey January 31, 2012 at 10:13 AM #

    Do you have Fit for Real People? I think they address the neckline-gaping issue in there somewhere. It actually looks to me that it’s not only the neckline, but a general bagginess through the upper chest area. Almost like you need to go down a size (I know it’s impossible with vintage patterns, but this is the best way to describe it) through the neckline, shoulders and upper chest, and then graduate to the proper bust size.

    • eileensbasement January 31, 2012 at 8:12 PM #

      Darn bust size! Yes, I have this book. I found that if I lowered the shoulders a bit and took a little more out of the darts that it looks pretty good now. Since I’m going to wear it as a jacket, I do want a smidge of extra room to wear it over blouses and such! I wish I could go down a size, that would have saved me lots of time.

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